The waiting guides of the Compagnie des guides de Chamonix prepare to set out for Montenvers along with their clients. Ca 1910, before the funicular was built.

Guides at the ready, exertions rewarded

In Chamonix the locals were not short of business acumen when it came to tourists. Jemima Morrell writes pointedly about the vastly inflated prices demanded for the indispensable alpenstocks.

The guides were waiting in front of the hotel, «each man awaiting his turn, a rule which is rigorously enforced by the authorities». The group decided against riding; led by their guide they climbed up to Montenvers and then on their way back down crossed the «Mer de glace» – no mean feat!

Monster stage
Mainly on foot, but also taking it in turns to ride, they reached La Forclaz. Then they had to tackle the interminable and exhausting path to Martigny – «our goal, which, owing to the clear atmosphere, looks so near that we comfort our ‹poor feet› by telegraphing assurances that we shall soon run down there. But delusive conclusion! Each short turn but reveals a path of multiplied length instead of a direct incline, which path is rugged with loose stones which threaten to make mincemeat of our shoe soles.»